I just freaked myself out, seriously. My entire crochet life I assumed, and was assured by the writings of others, that it makes no difference whether you begin working with a skein, ball or cake of yarn by pulling from the outside or by pulling from the center (see here). HOKEY SMOKES! As a result of some geeky experiments I did this morning while snow bound at home, I now know that there is a difference. Yes, I should get a life. But if you’d like to know what I discovered, then read on.
Let me take a step back and talk about yarn twist for a moment. I’ve been examining and writing about yarn twist for years (see here) and hope you’re all caught up, but I will summarize. Except for ribbon, tape and tubular constructions (and perhaps roving, but I never work with unspun roving so I can’t say for sure) where the finished yarn is a wider or flatter product and the spinning, plying or twisting of the yarn fibers is not evident and not an issue, every yarn has a finished twist. Yarn is either S-Twist or Z-Twist. That particular twist is always the same no matter how you are viewing the strand, no matter which end is up or down. How can you tell which twist? Look at a single strand of yarn; if the fibers or plies make a slant this way \, like the center stroke of an S, then it is S-Twist. If it slants this way /, like the center stroke of a Z, then it is Z-Twist. Below, Z-Twist on left, S-Twist on right. That’s all pretty straightforward… so far.
Z-Twist yarn on left; S-Twist yarn on right.
The huge majority of commercial yarn is finished with S-Twist, no matter how the individual fibers, strand and plies are spun. No idea why. Maybe it’s a manufacturing thing. I suspect that it is an end-user thing. Most hand-crafting yarn is designed to be used for knitting, by right-handed knitters. S-Twist favors the knitting process; knitting reinforces S-Twist and keeps the plies coherent and the strand stable. The opposite happens in crochet by right-handed crocheters. Because the yarn is wrapped around the crochet hook (yarn over) in the opposite direction of the knit yarn over, and because crochet stitches have height and may contain multiple yarn overs each time, crochet tends to un-twist the S-Twist. Eventually, if this continues throughout the length of a skein (exacerbated by the act of fixing mistakes, frogging and re-crocheting) then that S-Twist yarn will become seriously untwisted, splitty, lose coherence and begin to fall apart. When the yarn is a loosely S-Twist product to begin with, crocheting it can result in disaster.
Manufacturers create the final put-up (ball, skein or cone) without additional twist. They do this by rotating the spindle that holds the skein, so the yarn is wound straight onto the core, not twisted around the core. You do this as well when you wind a hank onto a ball-winder. From the perspective of the yarn itself, you are not putting any additional twist into the strand. However, from the perspective of the user, there is more twist happening. Why? When you go to use the skein, you either pick up and begin with the end on the outside of the skein, or you dig inside the skein for the center pull, right? The skein stays put, the yarn winds around the skein as it comes off. You are adding twist.
If you consider the orientation of the skein each time you draw some yarn from it, you can choose for this user twist to be S or Z. If you’re looking at the skein from one end, and if you continue to wind the skein it would be in a clockwise direction, then pulling the feed directly from the outside from this end will add S-Twist. If you pull from that center end, you will add Z-Twist.
If you’re looking at the other end of the skein, and the yarn is winding around in a counter-clockwise direction, then pulling directly from that outside end will add Z-Twist. If you dug around and drew the center of the skein through this same end, and you pulled from the center, then you would add S-Twist.
For most yarn users, this matters not, really. The amount of twist may be negligible in the overall picture, and you may never have a problem. But if you have noticed your yarn feed getting ratty and loose, if the splitting gets worse and worse as you go, if you tend to crochet and un-crochet the same sections over and over, if you like to work loose gauges and tall stitches, if your finished fabric looks crappy and worn before you’ve even worn it, then you may have an issue with twist.
There is a way to eliminate user twist, and that is to rotate the skein as you use it, pulled from the outside. Know how it is when your yarn ball flips and jumps around while you pull from it? That’s your feed coming off the ball without twist. I have a tool, a contraption, that holds skeins, balls and cones, lets them spin freely and allows you to pull yarn in the manner it was put on.
It’s called the Yarn Pet, designed and crafted by my friends at Nancy’s KnitKnacks, and adapts (a tiny tool and some assembly required) to all sorts of yarn packaging. The commercial Yarn Pet is what we use at DesigningVashti when winding Lotus into cakes from the manufacturer cones.
Not everyone needs to get so geeky about twist, but if you are experiencing twist issues, at least now you know it’s not your fault! Just saying….
The same piece, but blocked. From how crappy the stitches look in the before image, you thought this might be cheapo yarn. Definitely not. This is a DK blend of 75% New Zealand Merino wool and 30% cashmere (Zealana Willow) that retails for around $15 a 50g skein. As a participant in a program that provides knit and crochet examples for new yarns that will be on display at 
Immediately you can see it is finished with S-twist. Upon closer inspection (peeling apart one end of a strand) I discovered that it is composed of three plies, three Z spun singles. This construction is fairly unique in my experience. The hand of the yarn in the skein is wonderfully soft, but not completely squishy. By adding cashmere to the fiber content, by doing the plies as singles, then finishing with a looser S-twist, they have created softness and airiness, avoiding any density that can happen with wool. The surface appearance is not totally matte; there is a nice reflective quality that some might call a sheen. I’m willing to wager that Willow knits up beautifully. My task is to make it sing in crochet.
These little ball band symbols are the current accepted standards for classifying weights for hand yarn. Some manufacturers, brands and distributors label their yarn by weight alone (in manufacturing it would appear as yards per pound, YPP). In other words, if a yarn falls within a certain range of YPP, then it is put in that class. But yardage weight alone does not tell the whole story; we need to consider other factors such as density, diameter, texture, elasticity and eventual finish of the fiber. That makes a total difference in how the yarn will work in knit and crochet, in your hands and in your fabric.
This is the full motif, finished and blocked. Before blocking I did not notice any serious issues with the S-twist, and honestly the yarn seemed happy. The motif did not quite get the same gauge as listed for the sample yarn Zara in the Zodiac pattern; it came out a tiny bit smaller and the fabric did not have the luscious drape of the original design yarn Zara, but those facts were not at all a concern for this end purpose, so this is the sample I eventually submitted. What would happen, I mused, if I pushed this yarn farther? I went up a hook size to I/9 (5.5mm) and crocheted another motif, this time a Carina Minor Pent. That’s the one I asked you readers to examine.
See how the motif bends by itself and hangs off my finger. Crochet fabric with lesser drape would stick out more and stand by itself like a potholder.
Doris Chan Crochet 